Acorn Squash Growing Guide
Acorn squash (Cucurbita pepo var. turbinata) is one of several annual winter squashes. It is native to North and Central America and was grown by Native Americans prior to the arrival of Europeans.
It gets its name from the shape resembling a large acorn. It is grown during the summer and is classed as a winter squash due to their winter storage qualities. Butternut squash, hubbard squash and spaghetti squash are also popular winter squash varieties grown by gardeners.
The most common acorn squash colors are dark green, but there are yellow, white and variegated varieties.
Starting from Seed
Acorn squash has a long growing season and in the northern growing zones it is helpful to start them from seed and give them a head start.
Follow the seed packet instructions, seeds can be started indoors 6 to 8-weeks before your last expected frost date.
For more detailed information visit the seed starting page.
Soil Preparation
Plant in a nice loose well-drained garden soil in full sun. As soon as the soil is frost-free and can be worked, till the soil by digging down 8 to 12-inches turning the soil over with a garden fork. Remove any large and small rocks.
Add compost and blend in before planting. The soil pH should be 6.0 to 6.8 if your soil pH is below 6.0 add garden lime as directed on the bag.
Planting Acorn Squash
Plant the acorn squash seeds in full sun directly in the garden after all danger of frost. They will grow best when the soil temperature is 70-degrees or higher. Most varieties need 75 to 100-days to mature.
If you do not have much space, you can choose a bush variety. There are many varieties that can be grown in containers.
To lessen the chance of getting vine borers, plant later in the season. Waiting 2 or 3-weeks after the last frost date to plant or using a light row cover can be very helpful.
They can be planted in rows or hills.
When planting in rows, sow the seeds 1-inch deep, 6 to 12-inches apart, in rows 6 to 8-feet apart. After the seeds germinate and are a few inches tall thin them to one plant every 2 to 3-feet by sniping off the extra plants.
When planting in hills dig up an area about 3-feet across adding good rich garden soil leaving a slight mound about a foot high. Each hill can be 4 to 6-feet apart depending on the size of the variety you are growing.
Sow 4 to 6-seeds per hill and when the plants are a few inches tall thin them to 2 to 3 per hill by sniping off the extra plants.
Each vine can grow 10 to 12-feet long with each one producing 4 to 5 squash. You need to figure that each vine will need about 9-square feet without overshadowing your other vegetables.
A rough guide is that you could have 3 to 4-plants in a 4 by 8-foot raised bed. On each end of the bed, you would place your seeds or started transplants and they will have room to grow towards each other.
Watering and Care
When the plants are a few inches tall add a nice loose mulch of shredded leaves or pine straw to shade the roots.
This will keep the weeds out, the soil cooler and help retain moisture. Keep the mulch a couple of inches away from the stem. Weeding and cultivating can damage the shallow roots. During dry spells give some water each week.
If needed you can feed with an organic fertilizer such as Espoma Garden-tone.
Harvesting Acorn Squash
Depending on the variety it will take 85 to 90-days for it to reach maturity. They are ripe when the stem starts to shrivel up. For proper storage the stem needs to remain on. Leave an inch of the stem on and cut it with a sharp knife or a branch lopper. Do not move it by holding the stem since it may break off and it will not store very well. The squash skin has a natural protective wax which should not be washed off. Lightly brush off any excess soil before carefully placing them in storage.
Storing winter squash is a time-honored tradition of having fresh produce during the cold winter months. You can expect acorn squash to keep for 5 to 8-weeks, but proper storage is important. For proper storage a temperature of 45 to 55-degrees F in a well ventilated cool dark location is ideal. High humidity can cause rot, so they should be stored on a shelf in a single layer on newspaper or cardboard. Periodically turn and inspect for spoilage as you remove any.
Diseases and Pests
Downy mildew and powdery mildew are common in some areas. Choosing resistant varieties and maintaining good air circulation around the plant are the best ways to avoid any problems. Remove any diseased leaves and put in the trash, not in the compost pile.
There are several squash vine borers that can cause problems. Examine your vines often near where it comes out of the ground. Look for a small entry hole and what looks like sawdust. To save the plant you need to remove the 1-inch-long caterpillar.
To do this make a lengthwise slit near the entry hole and spread the sides of the slit to reveal the caterpillar, which is usually found several inches above that point.
Use tweezers to carefully remove it, doing as little damage to the vine as possible. Now pile some soil over the slit to encourage the growth of new roots there. Cover with mulch and water when needed.
Cucumber beetles and squash bugs are common pest problems. Sticky traps and hand picking are used by many gardeners as well as some organic sprays. Examine your squash plants often, especially on the bottom of the leaves where the adults hide and lay their eggs.
Duct tape is a very effective way to remove the adults and eggs. Take a piece about 8 or 9-inches long and attach the ends together to form a loop with the sticky side out. Put one hand through the loop and with the other lift up a leaf looking for any eggs or adults. If you find any adults stick them to the tape and do the same for the eggs.
Popular Varieties
Vining: Autumn Frost, Black Bellota, Table Ace, Table Princess, Table Queen.
Bush: Early Acorn, Honey Bear, Table Gold, Table King.
Sources: Seeds Now, Burpee, Gurney’s
Tips and Warnings
At the end of the growing season carefully pull up the vines and put in the trash not the compost pile. The vines may contain eggs or larvae that could be hiding inside the stems or roots.
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