Cauliflower Growing Guide
Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis) is one of the cruciferous vegetables you should eat on a regular basis and is an important source of essential nutrients and fiber.
It contains a compound called sulforaphane. Sulforaphane belongs to a group of phytochemicals that are reported to be helpful in the prevention of cancer.
A partial list of common cruciferous vegetables is: bok choy (Chinese cabbage), broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, kale, kohlrabi and radish.
Starting From Seed
Follow the seed packet instructions, seeds can be started indoors 4 to 6-weeks before your last expected frost date.
Sow seed 1/4-inch deep. Germination takes 7 to 12-days.
For more detailed information visit the seed starting page.
Soil Preparation
Cauliflower should be planted in full sun and in a nice loose well-drained garden soil. Cauliflower will do well in slightly acid to alkaline soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.5.
As soon as the soil is frost-free and can be worked, till the soil by digging down 8 to 12-inches turning the soil over with a garden fork. Remove any large rocks and stones. The small stones remaining will do no harm and actually benefit the soil by adding some micronutrients to the soil.
Planting
Cauliflower is a cool weather annual vegetable and can be planted 2-weeks before your last expected frost. Plant it in an area so that it gets 6 to 8-hours of sun. They can be planted as close as 12-inches apart, but they will be a bit crowded, so a spacing of 18 to 24-inches will give them more room.
Water the plants deeply once a week to keep the shallow roots from drying out, especially when the heads are forming.
Mulching
When the cauliflower is established a nice loose mulch of shredded leaves or pine straw will help shade the roots. This will keep the weeds out, the soil cooler and keep it from drying out.
Harvesting Cauliflower
If the variety of cauliflower you are growing has a white head and you want a bright white head you will need to blanch the head. When the head is about the size of a golf ball gather the largest leaves around it and secure it with string or a rubber band.
When the head is 6 to 8-inches in diameter it should be ready to harvest. Be sure to pick the head while the flower buds are still tightly closed. Remove the head with a sharp knife leaving a stem 1 to 2-inches long. After picking the head the plant will send out more side shoots with smaller heads for an extended harvest.
Diseases
There are several diseases that affect the cruciferous vegetables. These occasionally affect the roots and leaves. Crop rotation and removal of diseased plants is the best way to control them. Increasing plant spacing in the future helps increase air circulation around the plants.
Pests
Most of the cruciferous vegetables are all affected by many of the same pests. Some of these are: aphids and several species of cabbageworms and caterpillars.
The easiest way to deal with aphids without using chemicals is to knock them off with a spray of water. Ladybug beetles will eat many aphids. Many gardeners will purchase them and release them in their garden to help control the aphids that are a problem with many plants. Serious infestations can be controlled with an organic product such as insecticidal soap or neem oil. These are both organic controls that are very effective.
The cabbageworms and caterpillars cause damage by eating holes in the leaves. The adult moth lays small eggs on the underside of the leaves, which hatch out as larvae and do the damage. They multiply very rapidly, so inspect your plants often early in the morning, between the leaves and the underside for small caterpillars and egg masses.
Cabbageworms can be removed by hand picking them as you inspect your plants. Spraying your plants every 1 or 2-weeks with a special variety of BT (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) will kill the cabbageworms. There are also several products that contain spinosad, a naturally occurring insecticide.
Duct tape helps to remove the caterpillars and eggs. Take a piece about 8 or 9-inches long and attach the ends together to form a loop with the sticky side out. Put one hand through the loop and with the other lift up a leaf looking for any caterpillars or eggs. If you find any caterpillars stick them to the tape and do the same for the eggs.
Cabbage root maggot larvae feed on the roots of the plants, which in the beginning causes wilting and plants to die later on. The best prevention is to toss the entire plant in the garbage after harvesting, including any soil that clings to the roots. The best way to reduce any future problems is to rotate your crops to a new location each year. Row covers are about the only way to control the cabbage root fly. Place the row covers over the plants in the spring right after putting them in the ground.
Popular Varieties
White head; Denali, Snowball, Snow Crop, Snow Crown, Skywalker.
Purple head; Graffiti, Purple of Sicily, Mulberry.
Orange head; Cheddar, Orange Burst.
Sources: Seeds Now, Burpee, Park Seed
Tips and Warnings
It is very important not to overcook cauliflower or any of the other cruciferous vegetables. They have sulforaphane in them, which is a sulfur compound that is essential for life. When cauliflower and other cruciferous vegetables are overcooked they will emit an unpleasant sulfur smell, which is why many people do not like collard greens, broccoli, cauliflower or cabbage.
The best and most nutritious way to cook the head is to steam it instead of boiling. Put a small amount of water in a pot and bring to a boil. Add your steamer basket and the head. Set your timer and simmer covered for 8 to 10-minutes. Adjust the time to your own personal taste, it does not need to be cooked until limp and wilted.
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